At Home with Chef Randy Evans

The summer heat may be harsh at times, but Evans relishes the ease of growing herbs and peppers. “My favorite herb is Mexican mint marigold,” he says. “It tastes like tarragon and has pretty yellow flowers. I also like Thai basil, because you can let it bloom and it doesn’t get bitter. Peppers and herbs are so easy to grow and the produce quite a bit. Of course, I use them fresh as much as possible, but it’s also good to dehydrate them for later.”

Evans says he will have a few things to learn about gardening in Boerne, where his family is moving. “It’s much drier, rocky, lots of deer to deal with,” he says. “Unfortunately, I won’t be able to rely on Bob Randall’s book, I will have to find another resource.” For any Houston gardener, noted garden authority Bob Randall’s Year Round Vegetables, Fruits and Flowers for Metro Houston is a must for successful gardening.

“The way I cook is just straightforward and simple,” says Evans. “Or I take a thematic approach, like a region. During the summer I look to the hot, humid regions similar to ours, such as Korean, Vietnamese, Mexican, Southeast Asia, Provence and Mediterranean cuisines.”  Evans describes his version of sofrito—a Spanish sauce that starts with cooking down aromatics in olive oil. “When everything gets soft and tender, I purée it in a blender and add capers, cherry tomatoes, red onion and white wine,” he says. “I like to use this sauce for shrimp and grits. And I have to use grits from Homestead Gristmill.” Evans is partial to products from this 18th-century mill located near Waco.

“My dad worked two jobs, so my mom would have dinner on the table at 5,” says Evans. “She would make roast beef, green beans, squash and mashed potatoes. She would start the roast early in the morning. I remember smelling the beef cooking in the Worcestershire sauce all day.”  “I will always love the smell of sauces being made,” he continues. “It really spreads through the whole house and captivates your senses. When the aromatics are cooking, the mirepoix, I love smelling that in the house or even walking past a restaurant.”

“I also won’t forget working with Recipe for Success Foundation, which has been an eye-opening and rewarding experience,” says Evans. “Watching the kids try things for the first time, like their first time to eat broccoli flowers… Now those first kids I taught are graduating high school. It’s great to know you launched that sense of appreciation.”

Sandra Cook is a frequent features contributor to Downtown magazine, and has recently written a series of features for the Houston Museum District Association. She is the former editor of Houston House & Home and the Houston Visitors Guide.